In France, a country with a multiplicity of cheeses, only one achieves national unity: the humble Vache qui rit – or Laughing Cow. But what are the origins of this product? Invented in the wake of the Great War as a trailblazing 'fromage moderne', it shares a terroir with the more prestigious Comté, which is also one of its ingredients. Paradoxically, Muriel suggests, this processed melted cheese – part Proustian madeleine and part gateway to gastronomy – is an expression of the French passion for le fromage. And Suzanne also receives something she didn't know she needed: a moo box!
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